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Smer Jai Khao Soi

Chiang Mai, Thailand – When I worked in merchandising on a prepared foods line, tastings were a part of the weekly routine, sometimes day-long tastings of dozens of dishes, sometimes just an hour on five different iterations of one product. You would take a few bites of each item, just enough to get the taste, knowing that the goal was evaluation, not cleaning the plate. I must have forgotten how normal people eat.

“I don’t like leaving food,” my friend, the Engineer, whispered. We were on our first bowl of khao soi, an egg-noodle curry soup topped with crispy fried noodles and accompanied by slices of shallot, pickled mustard greens, and lime wedges, known as a Northern Thai specialty of various origins. The first time I had khao soi was in New York’s Sripraphai, where the pleasantly understated dish held its own against more explosive tableside companions. Now in Chiang Mai, it was time to see the breadth of khao soi offerings in its home city.

The Engineer and I were sitting in Khao-Soi Islam, a busy Muslim spot recommended by a friend who is a Chiang Mai resident. The khao soi had a deeply robust, spiced broth thick speckled with bits of meat, its noodles were pale and linguine-straight, and the chicken very plain. It was nothing like Sripraphai’s mild version. “I don’t know how I feel about khao soi,” said the Engineer looking at our shared bowl with little enthusiasm.

Onto the next place, Khao Soy Fueng Fah, also a Halal joint and on the same soi (side street) as Khao-Soi Islam, but not recommended by anyone and much, much quieter. We thought we would try it anyway. The noodles here were soft, almost mushy. The broth tasted mostly of coconut milk lacking any depth. And the chicken was dry and brown. “I definitely liked the other place more, but I’m still not sure about khao soi,” said the Engineer looking past our bowl.

We moved onto Khao Soi Prince across the Mae Ping river. Here the broth balanced deep chicken flavor, spices, and sweet coconut milk. The yellow egg noodles were firm, but pliant, and the chicken was almost reveletory – ultra tender and completely infused with the curry’s spices. “I would order a bowl of this,” the Engineer pronounced with a smile, “but no more khao soi today.”

The next day we found ourselves at bustling and bright Lam Duan, recommended by a shopkeeper after our first three bowls of khao soi the day before. Fear spread across the Engineer’s face at the suggestion of more khao soi at that moment, but today was a new day and a new khao soi. This one had a dynamic broth that was spiced, savory and sweet. The noodles were wider, but still chewy tender. The chicken, bone-in legs instead of the chunks we’d seen previously, was dry and flavorless, but we almost didn’t care because the broth was so good and the Engineer slurped it down with reckless abandon. There were two more places to try on the same stretch.

Up the road, Smer Jai Khao Soy was out of chicken so we settled for beef. This khao soi was assuredly more greasy than the prior four. The broth was deep, rich and very sweet, the noodles were soft, and the meat tender and beefy. The Engineer said the fried noodles were her favorite, but overall this version was way too greasy and sweet for us.

As for the third place, we couldn’t find it, much to the Engineer’s relief. “I’m full,” she said rubbing her stomach. I didn’t mention the shopkeeper’s other recommendation, a noodle place just down the road.

Khao Soi Islam, 22-24 Charoenprathet Rd, Soi 1 Muang, Chiang Mai (near the Kalare Night Bazaar)

Khao Soy Fueng Fah, Charoenprathet Rd, Soi 1 Muang, Chiang Mai (near the Kalare Night Bazaar)

Khao-Soi Prince, Th Kaew Nawarat, Chiang Mai (East of the Mae Ping river, near the Nakorn Ping Bridge)

Khao Soi Lam Duan, Th Faham, Chiang Mai (East of the Mae Ping river, North of the Rama 9 Bridge)

Khao Soi Smer Jai, Th Faham, Chiang Mai (East of the Mae Ping river, North of the Rama 9 Bridge)

For more pictures, click here.