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Looking for Chiang Mai…in Bangkok

September 24th, 2008

Iced Latte at The Gingerbread House on Phra Athit (Thai Pomegranate from Maharat Rd)

When I’m in Chiang Mai I crave Bangkok’s raw energy – motorbikes weaving around multicolored taxis and buses with wooden-plank floors, street food stalls squashed in the narrowest of alleyways serving food early in the morning and late into the night, and shops upon shops upon shops selling anything and everything.

Now in Bangkok I miss Chiang Mai’s meandering ease. Looking for a little coffeehouse therapy, I headed to Phra Athit, a small curve of road along the Chao Phraya river with a reputation for bohemian cool. The street is dotted with restaurants doubling as galleries, bakeries and coffee shops, and at its northern end is the pretty and peaceful Santichaiprakarn Park where both tourists and locals can laze around on park benches overlooking the river.

First on my list was lunch at Krua Noppharat Restaurant, where I had a fantastic gaeng khiew waan gai or green curry with chicken and steamed rice (90 baht), before picking up some funky postcards (10 baht/ea) at Jankapore Rock & Gem and a disappointing roti with milk and sugar (9 baht) at the Roti Mataba. Braving the heat, I walked over to Maharat Rd to check out the Maharaj and Amulet markets, where vendors sell knick-knacks to tourists, clothes to college students and food to everyone. When I felt as though I might be close to passing out I headed back to Phra Athit in search of air conditioning and refreshment. Across from the imposingly white Phrasumain Fortress, about where Phra Athit meets Phrasumane, I settled into The Gingerbread House, a quiet coffeehouse, where I found short respite in an iced latte (50 baht) and Thai design magazines. Now back to the madness.