The Best Phad Thai in Chiang Mai?
October 7th, 2008
Phad Thai to go on Arak
Phad Thai reminds me of the pizza situation in New York. It’s everywhere, but you really have to know where to go to get a good one. Otherwise you’re relegated to the high likelihood of getting a dull, unsatisfying version. You might think that Thailand’s eponymous dish would be good all across this food-loving country. Unfortunately, it’s not the case. I’ve had phad thai that was doused with Heinz thai chile sauce, too sweet or so overcooked that all the noodles stuck together in a clump making eating it rather awkward. In fact, the dish, even though it’s called Thai fast food by some, is difficult to make and some home cooks never attempt it on their own citing the delicate flavor balance challenging to master and long list of ingredients tedious. That’s why I perked up when one of my friends, a 5-year resident in Thailand, pronounced that a spot on Th Arak had ”the best phad thai in Chiang Mai.”
On the west side of the moat, just south of Arak Soi 3, customers start lining up at 6 p.m. waiting for the place to open and for the rest of the night there is a steady stream of hungry diners waiting at tables or in the to-go line for their orders. To meet this continuous demand, the cook makes large batches of phad thai with a few of the main components – eggs, shrimp and tofu – cooked separately in a large, flat pan and added in later.
Phad Thai, as many know, is a stir-fried rice noodle dish made with tamarind pulp, fish sauce, palm sugar and paprika or chile powder, which provide the flavor balance of the dish, and garnished with peanuts. Phad thai is not supposed to be fiery, nor should sweetness dominate, and personally I like it when the tamarind comes through a little more so that it’s a bit more tangy. Sometimes the protein is only tofu and eggs. Shrimp is traditional, as well, though chicken is less commonly used here than in the U.S. At every restaurant, the standard street food condiments – fish sauce, chile flakes, sugar, and chile vinegar – are at the ready so that diners can alter the flavor balance to their liking. In addition, phad thai is usually served with a wedge of lime, whole scallions, fresh bean sprouts and a wedge of banana flower, which has an astringent quality, to be mixed in or munched on separately, adding texture and fresh flavor variations to the dish. Some might turn their nose up at this well-known dish, but it’s complex and quite glorious when done well.
The Arak phad thai spot has the characteristics that would mark it as a good spot. First, save two other dishes, they only make phad thai. In my limited experience, I’ve found it’s not a good item to order off a long menu and the best places are phad thai joints. Second, and more obviously, it’s very popular with local Thais. And no wonder, the noodles are perfectly cooked, the shrimp tender, and the flavor balance is a little sweet, a little sour, a little savory and a hint spicy (I usually add more chile). Now whether or not it’s the best phad thai spot in Chiang Mai, I’m afraid I’m unqualified to judge. It does, however, make a damn good one.
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