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Grilled Chicken Reheating by the Ocean

Ko Samet, Thailand – My first time in Ko Samet, a few months back, I traveled there by bus fleeing the sex-tourism destination Pattaya after a brief day trip to meet a friend who was diving there.  Ko Samet with its white sand beaches, aqua blue water and a crowd equal parts families and groups of young people was a welcome change to Pattaya’s nonexistent beaches and skin-crawling nightlife.  This past weekend, instead of taking a bus or taxi like any other traveler, I was able to ride like a local in a car full of friends with beer and an ipod to lubricate the 3-hour journey.  My previous visit I had learned that there was great local food to be had by north of the main pier, but never made it that far past the strip of restaurants, some of which were pretty good, back off the road leading to Diamond beach.  Although I had hoped to explore further this time around, as part of a larger group, I had to go with the flow and most of our eating was contained to the the main beach.  No matter though.  Although the prices were tourist-high and ordering mistakes abound, you can’t really argue with food hand made at your feet.  During the day, you can rent a beach chair next to the ocean and vendors stop by all day long.  Thai massage? Pedicure? Pomelo segments? Sticky rice? Any of it can be had.  

In particular, I liked to order from the grilled chicken vendors who roam the beach carrying two baskets hanging off the two ends of a pole balanced on their shoulders.  On one side, are the ingredients and tools for som tom (papaya salad).  On the other, is a metal cone set above the basket itself and holding hot coals in its center with a grill on top where cooked cooked chicken rests. If you stop them for the grilled chicken, they move one of the cooked pieces into the center of the grill over the hot coals to rewarm it.  If you ask them for som tom, they shred the green papaya in front of you and then pound it with chilies, fish sauce, sugar, lime juice and tomatoes.  The beach chicken is moist and fatty with a pleasant balance of spices, while the som tom is fiery and refreshing.  Altogether, truly good beach food.  Plus, you can’t beat the view. 

Beach Vendor Pounding Som Tom (Papaya Salad)

Grilled Chicken and Som Tom (Papaya Salad)