fedification.com

Fish at Pak Khlong Talat (the closest picture to Khao San I could find )

I recently received an e-mail from a traveler staying near Democracy Monument interested in some recommendations.  Since she’s staying relatively close to Khao San road, also known as the travelers’ ghetto, I thought that my response might be of general interest.  First of all, Bangkok traffic can be hellish and I don’t want anyone traversing the city for some asinine amount of time because I happen to like a noodle joint across town so all these recommendations are either close to Democracy Monument or an easy commute.

Now this traveler specifically asked for restaurant recommendations, and I’m giving a few, but the markets in this area have great food offerings and are so full of life and activity.  So, here it is:

-    Sorndaeng – This upscale Thai restaurant is located on the rotary encircling Democracy Monument.  The atmosphere can be a bit stiff (or just flat-out weird if the live music kicks up when there are only a few diners), but the food is quite good. 10 a.m. – 11 p.m. 78/2 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. 02-224-3088
-    Chote Chitr – The famed family-owned restaurant has been written up in nearly every western publication for its banana flower salad and crispy noodle salad and rightfully so.  I think it’s a nice place to meander over to for lunch.  10:30 a.m. – 9 p.m. 146 Praeng Phuton Rd. 02-221-4082
-    Raan Jay Fai Noodles – Some make fun of the idea of paying 250 baht ($7) for noodles, but I quite like them and they’re always well made.  Plus Jay Fai is killer with the wok and so much fun to watch.  You could do much worse for hyped restaurants (see Thip Samai down the street).  5 p.m. – 12:00 a.m. 327 Mahachai Rd. 02-223-9384
-    Krua Apsorn – Take a boat up the river to Thewet, walk straight off the pier, past the lovely flower market, and turn left onto Samsen.  Walk up the road on the left side until you reach the restaurant (before the 7/11 at Samsen Soi 9).  I remember the mussels with green peppercorns and the crab with yellow curry as stand outs.  Don’t forget to dip into “the wet” market en route.  Mon-Sat 10:30am-7:30pm Samsen Rd (south of Samsen Soi 9) 02-241-8528
-    Pak Khlong Talat (north of Memorial Bridge) – Bangkok’s largest wholesale flower market also includes wholesale produce operations off the main drag.  Walk back into the alleyways on both sides of the street to see the wholesale produce – huge baskets of chilies, galangal, lemongrass and more.  You can also see the range of Thai fruit from durians to dragonfruit and, of course, there’s plenty of street food.  I like going early in the morning, but it seems to be open 24/7.
-    Saphun Phut Night Market (south of Memorial Bridge) – Haven’t heard Flo Rida’s Low at least 5 times today?  Need a few new pairs of converse?  Thinking about a new tat? Time to visit the Thai teenage mecca Saphun Phut, a fantastic spot for watching Bangkok’s youth smoking and shopping with plenty of student-budget eats mixed amongst the stalls.
-    Yaowarat Road – At night Chinatown transforms from its drab daytime self into a trippy neon dream, complete with durian trucks and duck noodle stands.  Avoid the restaurants that have their employees soliciting customers on the street and peek down some of the alleyways to scope the low-key, local action.
-    Phahurat Market (Phahurat Rd.) – This daytime market is not meant for the claustrophobic or the ditsy.  But if you can bear walking past endless stalls of textiles and cheap goods, and hop out of the way when motorbikes come puttering through the narrow walkway, there’s some great food to be had.  I think the khanom (Thai snacks and desserts) in this market is particularly good.  You’ll also be in Little India so a survey of the area might reveal some good Indian snacks as well.
-    Maharat Pier Market (Maharat Rd.) – A great daytime market for all sorts of curries, dumplings stir fries and more.  Don’t miss the orange juice this time of year!  It’s ten baht, it’s freaking delicious and you cannot get it back home.  Not necessarily just at this market, it’s just the last thing I had there, but it’s all around town and that’s the final word on Bangkok for today.