For These Shrimp, A Waltz, Not a Jig
April 13th, 2009Goong Dten (Dancing Shrimp)
Kaeng Khut Khun, Thailand – 5 km north of Chiang Khan is the Khut Khun rapids, a relaxing scenic area where the local specialty is goong dten or dancing shrimp. The day I got into Chiang Khan I biked over to the rapids, picked a table and, forgetting the full name of the dish, told the vendor “goong” and then made a little dancing motion with my right hand in a cupping left hand. “Ah,” she said and rushed off. She came back, but without the dish. So, I waited and waited and waited. Finally a young girl brought a plate with a smaller plate over it and the popping sound of tiny shrimps hitting the top of their enclosure. I removed the top plate to see a pool of small, translucent, insect-like shrimp jumping around in a dressing of fish sauce, chilies, mint and lemongrass. As I mixed them in the sauce, half of the shrimp laid still while the other half were flying everywhere – on the table, in the smaller plate, on my lap. That was all fine, though I didn’t particularly like them jumping back off the table into my plate. It’s in or out, little fellows. No table flavor for me, thanks. I crunched down on the little crustaceans spiking my tongue on their little bodies and sucking in the super spicy dressing. It was what a polite guest might call an interesting meal. Though I had more to learn. The next day when lunching with a group of Thai NGO workers I observed them shaking the shrimp between the two plate before removing the top one. When they removed the top plate, the shrimp stayed put. I explained my mishap with the dish the day before. “Ohhhh, they should be slowly dancing,” they told me laughing. “Ah,” I said.
Fisherman Casting Nets at Kaeng Khut Khu
Kaeng Khut Khu
Stiller Shrimp: Goong Toht (Fried Shrimp Crackers)




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