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Still Intertwined: A Little India in Bangkok

May 11th, 2009

Chai

Chai at Khana Khazana

Bangkok, Thailand – Rounding the corner on Chakrapret, the Pak Khlong Talat now far behind me, I came into an invisible spice cloud of cardamon and fennel, coriander and cumin, nutmeg, cinnamon. On the edge of Pahurat, Bangkok’s Little India, I was in front of an unnamed import storefront selling bags and bags of spices, grains, nuts and packaged goods. Yellow lentils, cashews, nutmeg, jasmine rice and candy-coated fennel seeds. There were boxes of flour and bottles of rose water. Incense.

India has long influenced Thailand in food, art and culture with the first wave of Indian immigration dating at least back to the second or third century AD. Today Bangkok’s Thai Indian community is predominately composed of Sikhs, as well as Hindus and Muslims to a lesser degree. In Pahurat ties to the Subcontinent feel strong. Groups of men in turbans and gauzy chin straps gather together in restaurants. On the street, bright saris flutter in the breeze, sequined sandals glint in the sun and the scent of incense wafts up from faded cardboard boxes. There are stores selling hookahs and women with intricate henna tattoos branching out across their arms. Video stores advertise the latest Bollywood romance and Indian soap operas flicker across old TVs.

A wander through the area can be fascinating. Start out in on Chakraphet just outside of India Emporium and pick up a samosa or pakora at the mouth of Soi ATM. Continue back through the markets curving around India Emporium and watch vendors rolling up mahk (or bahn as it’s called in Hindi), the chewing snack composed of a betel leaf filled with various condiments, usually including tobacco. Duck into the Sikh temple, Gurdwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha, if you’re dressed appropriately (shoulders, knees and everything in between covered). Try a few Indian sweets on display outside the restaurants. Or browse through the light, blousey clothing in back. (If you have to use a restroom, duck into the India Emporium mall, where the facilities are above average and ladies’ room icon is depicted wearing a sari.)

Return to Chakraphet and dip into one of the import shops on the main drag to browse spices, flours and syrups flown in from India and Pakistan or check out the glass hookahs at the fixtures store. Grab a cup of chai, inside or outside, and watch Indian soap operas. Wander through the back alleyways of Chakpraret, where men might be rolling up balls of paneer (cheese) or cooking chapati (flatbread) over an open flame. Follow the back alleyways all the way into Pahurat market, turning right, where an assortment of textiles, knickknacks and snacks seem to extend endlessly along a crowded market path.

Indian Dresses