If I’m Lying Somewhere, It Might As Well Be The Beach
June 19th, 2009
Thuan An
Hue, Vietnam – The day I left Hanoi for Hue, I fell ill, not violently ill just sapped of strength, and spent the next two days sleeping in my hotel room. It was pretty depressing. Here I was in Hue, the former capital of the country renowned for imperial Vietnamese cuisine inspired by food-obsessed Emperor Tu Duc, I could barely make it around the corner to get whatever was available. By my third day, I’d had enough self-pity and decided that if I was going to lie anywhere it might as well be the beach.
I headed up to Thuan An, about 13 km north, by motorbike. The ride is quite scenic passing by small fishing villages and large swaths of water. Once at the beach we settled under an open tent and my companions ordered plate after plate of fresh prawns steamed and served with a small bowl of salt, pepper and lime. The lime is squeezed into the salt and pepper making a simple sauce.
When I was in Halong Bay, they served salt and kalamansi with everything. Kalmansis are small green citrus fruits similar in size to a kumquat, but fleshier with an orange interior. That sauce really does go with everything, even miracurously for french fries, which I always thought were unmatched with ketchup and mayonnaise.
Back to the beach and the plate of prawns there. You crack the prawns open, suck out the head and dip the body in the lime-salt sauce. By midday, I had my appetite back and by the time the sun starting setting, after a day of dipping my toes in the sand and listening to the ocean waves, I felt better.
Seaside Prawns
Thuan An
Thuan An
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