Thai Tapas
June 23rd, 2009
Mian Kam Pla Two (Limestone Tartlet and Miang Tuna Tartare)
Bangkok, Thailand – Since 2006, the Glaz Bar at the Plaza Athenee Bangkok has been holding “Thai Wine Thai Tapas,” a tasting series that pairs Siam Winery wines with inspired bites from some of the country’s chefs. Last Wednesday, my friend Chef Ian Chalermkittichai had his turn and I was delighted to get an invitation from his wife Sarah. Seven dishes were paired with some of Siam Winery’s award-winning bottles. Standouts included the Miang Kam Pla Two, Yum Hua-Plee, Hoy Shell and the Kanhom Dok Mali.
The Miang Kam Pla Two is inspired by the street snack miang come, which typically includes a a bunch of flavorful pieces (ginger, lime, peanuts, chile, etc) in a betel leaf. This miang had ultra fresh tuna, alongside the usual suspects, but instead of a betel leaf, the miang was in an unbelievably crispy tartlet, which gets its unique crunch from limestone paste and a fast deep fry. I’ve always loved this snack, but the crunchy tart shell bring a nice textural crunch to the miang’s fireworks of flavors. If you’d like to see how the limestone tartlets are made check out Ian’s appearance on Iron Chef America.
I’m not usually a cooked scallop fan (though I do love them raw), but the Yum Hua-Plee, Hoy Shell changed my mind. The browned diver scallop rests on a few wisps of banana blossoms and hearts of palm, dressed in a typical banana blossom salad sauce of coconut cream, chile and palm sugar. The sweet-spicy creaminess of the sauce is the perfect compliment to the meaty scallop.
Rounding out the meal was the Khanom Dok Mali or Jasmine Flower Flan, which was more like a panna cotta and like a great panna cotta, it was very loose and very creamy. Fragrant, understated and elegant, I found out why this is one of the chef’s wife’s favorites. I could have scooped up more than the tapas portion.
Now I really hope Ian and Sarah aren’t reading this part, but since I just panned Bobby Chin and Didier Corlou yesterday, it would only be fair for me to be honest about my friends’ food. Admittedly, I felt like the meat didn’t shine through for the Pineapple-Braised Lamb Cutlet in Green Curry with Thai Basil, Apple Eggplant and the Slow-Roasted Duck Breast with Tamarind Vinaigrette, with the green curry a bit too subtle and the tamarind vinaigrette a bit too sweet. Still, overall, it was a great tasting menu showing how modern Thai food can successfully draw on traditional flavors. And at 390 baht ($11.50) for the tapas only and 730 baht ($21.50) for the tapas and two glasses of wine, it’s not a bad bet.
Thai Wine, Thai Tapas featuring Chef Ian Chalermkittichai
June 17th – September 15th, 2009
The Glaz Bar
Plaza Athénée Bangkok
Wireless Road
Thai Tapas Combination (includes two glasses of wine) 730 baht
Thai Tapas Sampler 390 baht
Reservations: 0 2650 8800 ext. 4324
Pla Goong (White Prawn Salad, Lemongrass, White Onion, Fish Sauce Dressing)
Yum Hua-Plee, Hoy Shell (Banana Blossom and Heart of Palm with Day-Boat Diver Scallop)
Gaeng Kiew Wan Kae (Pineapple Braised Lamb in Green Curry with Thai Basil)
No Responses to “Thai Tapas”