Trang Evening Market
July 29th, 2009
Gaeng Som, Muu Yang, Gaeng Mala Ko Or Go
Trang, Thailand – Traveling alone can be difficult when you want to eat in restaurants, especially when you want to try a range of things, because the portions (and prices) are scaled for large groups. Not so at the evening markets where manageable individual portions abound and you can even ask for a scoop of several dishes on top of your one plate of rice. Knowing my time in Trang was limited, I went to the evening market with the plan to try as much as I could. At the first stall, I had gaeng som (orange curry), muu yang (the special Trang roast pork) and gaeng mala ko or go (southern curry with innards and vegetables). The muu yang stewed with onions tasted like a sweet mixture of, well, bacon and onions and the gaeng mala ko or go was somewhat forgettable, but the gaeng som, enlivened by vegetal orange flowers and mildly bitter apple eggplant, was tangy, bright and totally unforgettable.
The rest of the market was something of a blur of styrofoam dinners to go – fried fish, fermented fish, roast pork, thai omelettes and khao yam, a messy mix of herbs, lemongrass, rice, chili flakes and a pungent fermented fish sauce sold by a couple of shy Muslim girls. There were trays on top of trays of fried chicken. There were roasted discs of sticky rice. There were fantastically spicy and pungent bowls of rice noodles with fish curry. There were trays of thinly sliced bamboo in a fishy coconut sauce and trays of greens in an even more fishy sauce. There were fresh spring rolls. There were ostentatiously decorated doughnuts. There were roti. And on and on.
Khao Yam
Khao Niao Toht
Fish and Rice
Muu Yang
Khao Jiao
Traditional Thai Doughnuts
Gai Toht
Milky Bamboo and Stewed Greens
Khanom Jean Num Ya
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